Barcelona, Bavaria, and Belfast: Exploring the Costa Brava with Friends

Sharps and Supsics on the Costa Brava, Spain

Hola, Espanya! We flew United from Newark to Barcelona on what was one of the most uncomfortable, cramped flights we have ever taken. The leg room was atrocious and there were only two toilets for 180 coach passengers causing all kinds of jam ups in the extremely narrow aisles. The fellow across the aisle was getting stewed on wine after wine, and we could see a potential altercation possible every time he said something obnoxious to the flight attendants. Everyone was cranky including the crew. Honestly, it was worse than taking a cross-country bus!

One of Frank's favorite Spanish beers, San Miquel

When we arrived in Barcelona, we took a taxi to the Passeig de Gracia train station where we boarded a train for Flaca, 1 ½ hours to the north on the Costa Brava (Spain’s beautiful and legendary eastern shoreline). This whole area is part of the Catalan region. The Catalan people are very proud of their heritage and do not think of themselves as Spanish (they even speak a different Catalan dialect). In fact, Catalunya would like to become independent of Spain, and they were quite disappointed when Scotland voted no to independence from Great Britain last week.

Having fun around the hacienda in Pals, Spain

Our friends Janet and Steve were all smiles as they greeted us at the train station. There is nothing like meeting old friends in a remote corner of a foreign country! Janet and Steve were doing a home exchange, so they had full use of a house here in the town of Pals, Spain while the Spanish homeowners were staying at Janet and Steve’s place back in the US. Quite an arrangement – they even had use of the owner’s car – a nice-looking Audi! The house felt like a hacienda with lush gardens surrounding a pool. We stayed in a second floor apartment which made for very comfortable living arrangements.

Dali's much-beloved wife, Gala

The Supsics and the Sharps had a blast sightseeing and eating in the fabulous Catalan restaurants nearby. Some of you may remember that we visited Salvatore Dali’s art museum in Figueres, just north of here, and his home in Port Ligat on our last visit to Barcelona. Well this time, the four of us decided to drive to the Dali-Gala Palace in Pubol so we could complete the “Dali trifecta” of sights. Dali bought this medieval palace as a private retreat for his wife Gala, and he was only allowed to visit her here by written invitation!

Dali's painting of Gala as an angel

Much of the house was furnished in a more reserved style (Gala’s), but it was still filled with the unique Dali touches. The focal points of the main entrance room were a pedestal holding a golden throne chair with a “G” carved on the back, and a painting up by the ceiling of a “Gala angel” floating on some clouds. These people were definitely not into modesty.

Dali's creepy mannequin/painting of Gala

Of course the house was filled with Dali art, and one of the strangest was a wall-high shadow box with a very realistic painting of Gala sitting on the floor shown from the back (with her signature hair bow on display). In front of the painting sat a lifelike mannequin, an exact replica of the Gala painting. Creepy! Gala is actually buried here in an austere tomb in the basement. Dali originally planned to be buried in the unmarked tomb next to her but later, after her death, he decided to be buried in his museum home in Figueres. Maybe he never got the written invitation!

The four of us at the stunning Calella beach
(Costa Brava, Spain)

We also spent a marvelous day wandering down the coast from one scenic village to another. These former fishing villages are now full-fledged beach resorts, but they still retain a sweet authenticity. Rather than cookie cutter hotels, the villages offer a charming hodgepodge of summer homes and rental apartments.

Calella shoreline on the Costa Brava in Spain

The beaches are low-key as well with lots of small coves and private niches. Our favorite was the town of Calella with three separate beach areas and lots of personality (topless bathers decorating the beaches too).

Richard with his Catalan guitar at Taverna Can Batlle
(Costa Brava, Spain)

We ate lunch at a Tavern called Can Batlle that has been around for over 100 years. Richard, the friendly English-speaking owner (who used to work for IBM and traveled all over the US), came over to chat and mentioned that he would be playing the guitar for patrons later that night. Janet asked if he might play something for us now, and he did! So there we were, sitting on a terrace by a Costa Brava beach listening to a lovely Catalan serenade. One of those special travel moments we will never forget.

More pics from our Costa Brava adventure: