Friday, September 26, 2014

Back to Barcelona

Santa Maria del Mar near our apartment in Barcelona
We took the train back to Barcelona where we had booked with the same apartment company that we were so pleased with on our last visit here, 2 years ago.  Janet and Steve arrived a day later and stayed in the same building so we could continue the merrymaking.

We were fortunate to arrive (completely by accident) during the festival called “La Merce,” Barcelona’s festival of festivals.  There were all kinds of special events going on all over the city and most were free!  Each night crowds would gather in Saint Jaume I Placa to view the light “Projections,” a highlight of La Merce. To call the “Projections” a light show is like calling Stonehenge a pile of rocks. 

"Projections" light show at La Merce in Barcelona
The front of a large government building on the square with windows, columns, and abutments served as the light show projection screen; it was illuminated and totally transformed from building status with unbelievably vivid colors and amazing animations to viewing screen extraordinaire.  At times, the protrusions and features of the building seemed to completely disappear.  The show began with a Charlie Chaplin type character dashing across the building and appearing inside one window after another.  Then a Barcelona street scene appeared with pedestrians walking by and cars and bikes riding down the street.  At one point, the entire building turned into a giant kaleidoscope with multi-color prisms constantly forming and reforming. 

Amazing animations at the La Merce "Projections"
We’ve seen light shows all around the world now, and Frank is NOT a light show fan; in his mind they are dumb and a waste of time and his money.  But he loved this remarkable show, and touted it as a breakthrough study in light engineering using well-designed lighting effects and optics for special effects.  Frank recalled a show he had seen on the military channel on TV about a year ago, where the military is presently using effects such as what we saw in this light show to make tanks, planes, and other military machinery become virtually “invisible” just by projecting the right amount of color and light on the devices at the right time.  A tank traveling along the horizon, for example, with a projection of the surrounding sky on its side, would be hard to be seen by the enemy, rendering the tank invisible to the eye, yet moving along in plain sight.

La Merce fireworks as seen from our
apartment terrace
We had an attic apartment on the very top of the building with a marvelous rooftop terrace.  Every night at 10:00, we enjoyed a great view of the La Merce celebratory fireworks on the nearby beach.  

"Parade of the Giants" in Barcelona








Other La Merce activities included several parades.  We saw a bit of the “Parade of the Giants” with 15 to 20-foot “dolls” being carried through the streets by a single human.  Each giant doll weighed about 200 lbs. and some poor guy (hidden underneath the doll’s clothing) had to carry the full weight on his shoulders.  Fun for the kids and all part of a tradition over 150 years old.

At the La Merce wine festival





A more appealing tradition was the La Merce wine festival with dozens of winemakers gladly pouring their goods.  We particularly enjoyed the cava (Spain’s name for their champagne). 

Lovin' the Cava at the La Merce wine festival









The way the wine festival worked was, we bought a pack of tickets and then presented a certain number of tickets to a vendor (depending on the cost and quality of the wine).  It seemed pricy until we realized that these were not tastings, but full glasses.  Since we had unwittingly bought 24 tickets, we had to come back a second day!





The amateur "Castellers"


Another fun La Merce event was watching the “Castellers.”  Castellers are another unique Barcelona tradition where clubs compete to see who can build the tallest human pyramid.  The first groups began with the strongest men (and some women) getting down on all fours and then lighter members would climb up to form each new level going as high as 8 or 9 levels until a little flyweight kid would climb all the way to the top. 



The Casteller Pros
Later, the pros arrived and they would build their bottom level standing up, almost like creating a tree trunk and having flying buttresses against the trunk (or human pyramid) to reinforce the structure.  These guys were absolutely amazing, sometimes reaching 3 or 4 stories high.  It was so cool to watch the highest members scramble up the sides of the pyramid to reach their upper spots.  And it was really scary to watch the little ones climb all the way to the top and punch the sky with their fists!  The pyramids we saw were all successful; no collapses while we watched!

Serrated rock face of Montserrat

Anne had always wanted to visit Montserrat, so we did a side trip to see this mountain top monastery.  This is one of those places where getting there was half the fun.  

Cable car to Montserrat
We took the metro, a 1-½ hr. train, and then the best part, a 35-man cable car up the side of the mountain.  The mountains are made of stony boulders that look serrated (hence the name – Mont “Serrat”), and riding the little yellow cable car up the super sheer rock face was quite a thrill.

In the center of Montserrat
A monastery has been nestled in this inhospitable place since the 11th c., and today, a group of 80 monks still live up there.  The small mountaintop village afforded great views and was certainly atmospheric, but Anne was disappointed that she was unable to see the famous Black Virgin – the lines in the basilica were so long that she would have had to wait almost 2 hours to get in.






To celebrate our last night in Barcelona (and our last night with our friends, the Sharps), we did what all good Barcelonans do; we went out for tapas.  What a fun way to finish off our experience, eating around a table covered with small plates of delectable goodies, shared by the foursome of old friends.  All washed down with a bottle of marvelous Spanish rioja!

More pics of Barcelona:

Our new Barcelona buddy, Frank the butcher slicing up
a Barcelona specialty, Jabuga ham


Serving up delectable Catalan hazelnuts and almonds

More Castellers create a triple pyramid

Castellers going for a height of 4 stories

Love tapas and Spanish beer!

Going for the cava/beer combo!

Some Barcelona residents don't get into the
spirit of the La Merce celebrations

More fun at the wine festival

Dizzying view on the way to Montserrat

A lone monk ponders existence here
at Montserrat

Salut!!!

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Exploring the Costa Brava with Friends

Sharps and Supsics on the Costa Brava, Spain 
Hola, Espanya!  We flew United from Newark to Barcelona on what was one of the most uncomfortable, cramped flights we have ever taken.  The leg room was atrocious and there were only two toilets for 180 coach passengers causing all kinds of jam ups in the extremely narrow aisles.  The fellow across the aisle was getting stewed on wine after wine, and we could see a potential altercation possible every time he said something obnoxious to the flight attendants.  Everyone was cranky including the crew.  Honestly, it was worse than taking a cross-country bus!

One of Frank's favorite Spanish beers, San Miquel
When we arrived in Barcelona, we took a taxi to the Passeig de Gracia train station where we boarded a train for Flaca, 1 ½ hours to the north on the Costa Brava (Spain’s beautiful and legendary eastern shoreline).  This whole area is part of the Catalan region.  The Catalan people are very proud of their heritage and do not think of themselves as Spanish (they even speak a different Catalan dialect).  In fact, Catalunya would like to become independent of Spain, and they were quite disappointed when Scotland voted no to independence from Great Britain last week. 

Having fun around the hacienda in Pals, Spain
Our friends Janet and Steve were all smiles as they greeted us at the train station.  There is nothing like meeting old friends in a remote corner of a foreign country!  Janet and Steve were doing a home exchange, so they had full use of a house here in the town of Pals, Spain while the Spanish homeowners were staying at Janet and Steve’s place back in the US.  Quite an arrangement – they even had use of the owner’s car – a nice-looking Audi!  The house felt like a hacienda with lush gardens surrounding a pool.  We stayed in a second floor apartment which made for very comfortable living arrangements.

Dali's much-beloved wife, Gala
The Supsics and the Sharps had a blast sightseeing and eating in the fabulous Catalan restaurants nearby.  Some of you may remember that we visited Salvatore Dali’s art museum in Figueres, just north of here, and his home in Port Ligat on our last visit to Barcelona.  Well this time, the four of us decided to drive to the Dali-Gala Palace in Pubol so we could complete the “Dali trifecta” of sights.  Dali bought this medieval palace as a private retreat for his wife Gala, and he was only allowed to visit her here by written invitation!  

Dali's painting of Gala as an angel 
Much of the house was furnished in a more reserved style (Gala’s), but it was still filled with the unique Dali touches.  The focal points of the main entrance room were a pedestal holding a golden throne chair with a “G” carved on the back, and a painting up by the ceiling of a “Gala angel” floating on some clouds.  These people were definitely not into modesty. 

Dali's creepy mannequin/painting of Gala






Of course the house was filled with Dali art, and one of the strangest was a wall-high shadow box with a very realistic painting of Gala sitting on the floor shown from the back (with her signature hair bow on display).  In front of the painting sat a lifelike mannequin, an exact replica of the Gala painting.  Creepy!  Gala is actually buried here in an austere tomb in the basement.  Dali originally planned to be buried in the unmarked tomb next to her but later, after her death, he decided to be buried in his museum home in Figueres.  Maybe he never got the written invitation!

The four of us at the stunning Calella beach
 (Costa Brava, Spain)
We also spent a marvelous day wandering down the coast from one scenic village to another.  These former fishing villages are now full-fledged beach resorts, but they still retain a sweet authenticity.  Rather than cookie cutter hotels, the villages offer a charming hodgepodge of summer homes and rental apartments.

Calella shoreline on the Costa Brava in Spain
The beaches are low-key as well with lots of small coves and private niches. Our favorite was the town of Calella with three separate beach areas and lots of personality (topless bathers decorating the beaches too).  

Richard with his Catalan guitar at Taverna Can Batlle
(Costa Brava, Spain)
We ate lunch at a Tavern called Can Batlle that has been around for over 100 years.  Richard, the friendly English-speaking owner (who used to work for IBM and traveled all over the US), came over to chat and mentioned that he would be playing the guitar for patrons later that night.  Janet asked if he might play something for us now, and he did!  So there we were, sitting on a terrace by a Costa Brava beach listening to a lovely Catalan serenade.  One of those special travel moments we will never forget.

More pics from our Costa Brava adventure:


Cava (Spanish champagne) brings out the best in us!!

The Med glitters like diamonds on the Costa Brava in Spain
On Tamariu beach Costa Brava, Spain

Pounding surf on the wonderfully ragged
Calella Beach, Spain

"Cheesecake Annie" struts her stuff
above Calella Beach, Spain

Two cold San Miquel beers for two hot men!

Calella Beach
(note topless bathers in the background on the left)

In the ancient medieval village of Pubol, Spain

Cooling down with a couple of Estrella beers

In the lovely village of Pubol near the Dali-Gala Palace

Chin chin!!